Most brands that offer made-to-measure suiting use a standard pattern and then alter it with your measurements. This is called a block pattern, and it’s the reason that a 40 regular at Banana Republic fits the same as a 40 regular at another brand.
But what if you’re looking for something more unique?
1. Know Your Measurements
There is no better way to show off your sartorial flair than with a custom-tailored suit. However, finding a tailor who will transform your sartorial aspirations into the perfect fitting suit of your dreams can be quite challenging.
First and foremost, you need to know your measurements. It will help your tailor understand your body’s unique quirks and ensure that the finished suit will look great on you. Once you have all of your body measurements, it is time to select the right fabric.
For the jacket, choosing a lightweight, worsted wool fabric that will work well for most seasons is best. Wool is a natural fiber that can be woven to be thick and insulating for winter or soft and smooth for spring and summer. It also comes in a wide variety of colors and textures, from sturdy flannel to paper-thin Super 200 fabric.
To find the perfect fit for your jacket, make sure that the shoulder seam lies flat on the top of your shoulders and meets where your arm naturally begins. Then, make sure that your jacket sleeves are long enough to be comfortably worn on your wrists.
Finally, ensure that your jacket’s waist is snug without being tight or uncomfortable. When it comes to pants, it’s important to stand in a relaxed and normal stance. It’s also important to make sure that your pants aren’t too long or too short.
Keep in mind that while it is possible to retouch a suit by a tailor, there are limits to what they can do. Especially with sleeves, the amount of length that can be added or taken away is limited.
2. Know Your Fabric
Having the perfect fit is not only important for looks, but it is also crucial for comfort. Having a suit that is too tight will make you feel restricted and may cause back pains and shoulder problems. On the other hand, having a too loose suit can lead to wrinkles and a droopy appearance.
Your choice of fabric will also determine how your suit fits. If you live in a hot climate, opt for a lighter, more breathable fabric like cotton or linen. Alternatively, choose wool or a wool blend if you want something warm and cozy. When it comes to suit linings, choose a color that complements the suit and adds style. The lining is not typically visible to the public, but it can impact how the suit fits and flatters your body shape.
When choosing a pattern, choose a classic option, such as thin pinstripes. These stripes elongate the body and exude sophistication, making them ideal for both formal and professional settings. If you’re feeling more adventurous, consider a plaid or check pattern for a fashion-forward look that can still be worn to work.
Ask friends, coworkers, and other well-dressed people for recommendations on tailors. Word of mouth is the best way to find a reliable, professional tailor to deliver a great product. You can also check online reviews to see what other clients have had to say about their experience working with the tailor. Once you’ve found a tailor, get in touch to discuss the details of your custom-tailored suit. A tailor can help you choose the best fabric, cut, and pattern for your suit based on your specific needs.
3. Get a First Fitting
A well-fitting suit makes a great impression on anyone. However, a poorly fitting suit is a real turn-off. Choosing the right tailor is one of the most important aspects of finding a suit that fits well and exudes style and elegance.
When working with a tailor, it’s important to find someone who is easy to communicate with and is willing to work with you on your style preferences. If you choose a tailor who is pushy or unwilling to work with you, it will be frustrating for both parties.
After getting your measurements, the next step is to get a first fitting. This will allow the tailor to see how you move and sit in your suits, which can help them understand how your suit should fit. This can help you avoid any problems with the fit of your suit, such as pinching, chafing, or creasing.
During this fitting, the tailor can also adjust your suit’s fit. This can include adjusting the shoulder pads, removing excess fabric from the back of the jacket, or adding a lining to the pants. This is a good time to ask the tailor any questions you have about your suit, such as what types of fabrics are available and what type of break (the part of the cuff that hangs off the pants) you want.
You can also learn a lot about the quality of your suit by checking out its lining. Typically, higher-quality suits have breathable rayon linings that wick away moisture. Depending on the occasion, you might want to add a lining for warmth or a more professional look.
4. Get a Second Fitting
When a tailor has a pattern of your body on which to work, they can hone in on the finer points of the fit. They can then make alterations in the fabric as needed and get you the best possible look. It is a little like how a painter has a canvas on which to build their painting.
It is important to be clear about what you want. It is also a good idea to bring some pictures of suits that you have seen that are pleasing to you. However, do not let these images sway you into a style that isn’t suited to your body type. Fashion fads come and go, but a suit that is designed to flatter your figure and complement your body type will be a timeless style that will remain stylish for years to come.
A custom-tailored suit is an investment. It will need to be taken care of, so you should be sure that it is something that you can live with for a long time. You don’t want to be wearing it when you decide that you no longer love it or that it no longer fits.
It is always a good idea to ask a tailor if they use a block system or if they make everything from scratch. If a tailor makes everything from scratch, they can create a suit to your specific measurements. This is the best way to ensure that you will get the best fit and highest quality suit. It is also the more expensive option. In addition, it takes a lot of extra time to make a suit from scratch.
5. Get a Third Fitting
The process of getting a bespoke suit takes time and requires multiple fittings. This is because the tailor must create a pattern from your body measurements and hone in on the finer points, such as the shape of your shoulders and how your suit will look when it is buttoned up or unbuttoned. A good tailor will use the block system of a first, second, and third fitting to ensure a perfect fit. Depending on the tailor you choose, a full bespoke suit can take anywhere from one month to a year.
During your consultation, be sure to ask about the fabric choices that are available. Some fabrics are more suitable for certain occasions than others. For example, a dark navy suit might be perfect for a job interview, while a light grey would be better suited for a wedding. It is also important to think about how often you will wear the suit, as this will help guide your fabric choice.
Some people are tempted to get five suits made at once, believing that this will save them money. However, this is not a good idea because achieving the perfect fit with such a large order can be difficult. For instance, if one of the suits comes back with a too tight collar or sleeves too long, it will be a huge hassle to send it back for corrections.
Choosing a tailor with whom you are comfortable is another important step to finding the perfect fit. Different tailors have different cutting styles, and it is important to understand this before you make your choice. For example, a tailor in midtown Manhattan might cut a more traditional suit for a mature clientele, while a tailor in downtown Manhattan might cut a more contemporary suit for a younger crowd.
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